The atelier
One room
on Refshalevej.
Weftmere has existed since 2017. Everything is cut, fitted and finished in one room in Copenhagen, by four people, four times a year.
The room was a boat shed. It has one long north window, which is the reason we took it and the reason the photographs on this site are all daylight.
Four collections a year is the limit of what four people can cut properly, and we have stopped treating that as a problem to be solved. The catalogue is 10 pieces. It is meant to be.
How a piece gets made
Cloth, pattern, toile, cut, finish. Six weeks for a coat.
01 — Toile
Every pattern is made up in calico first and pinned on a form. Most changes happen here, where the cloth is cheap.
02 — Fitting
The Long Coat is the only piece cut to measure. A fitting takes an hour, the coat takes six weeks, and the pattern is kept so the second one is faster.
The cloth library
Six materials. Four are cut this season; two are held because the mills run them rarely and we would rather have the bolt than the option.
Undyed Lambswool
- Composition
- 100% lambswool
- Weight
- 420 gsm
- Woven
- Spun and woven in Yorkshire, England
Taken to cloth without dye, so the fleece keeps its own range of ecru and oatmeal. Two bolts are never quite the same colour, and the coats are cut one bolt at a time.
Cut into Ground Coat, Mere Knit, Fold Collar Knit, Still Crewneck.
Heavy Linen
- Composition
- 100% European flax linen
- Weight
- 310 gsm
- Woven
- Woven in Kortrijk, Belgium
Heavier than shirting linen usually allows, so it holds a cut line and creases as a record of wear rather than as a fault. It softens for about a year and then stops.
Cut into Glasshouse Overall, The Long Coat, The Short Coat.
Recycled Cashmere
- Composition
- 85% recycled cashmere, 15% recycled wool
- Weight
- 12 gauge
- Woven
- Regenerated and spun in Prato, Italy
Sorted by colour before it is respun, so the grey is the colour of the collected fibre. Nothing is dyed to make the batches agree with one another.
Cut into Rib Vest, Rib Trouser.
Raw Silk
- Composition
- 100% silk
- Weight
- 160 gsm
- Woven
- Woven in Lyon, France
Used only where the atelier wants weight without structure: squares, linings and the odd sleeve. It is the one cloth in the library that moves faster than the body.
Cut into Square Scarf.
Olive Wool
- Composition
- 100% Cheviot wool
- Weight
- 520 gsm
- Woven
- Woven in the Scottish Borders
A three-colour weave that reads as one moss green from a distance. Milled hard enough that a coat cut from it needs no lining to hold its shape.
Held in the library. Not cut this season.
Indigo Twill
- Composition
- 100% cotton twill
- Weight
- 340 gsm
- Woven
- Rope-dyed and woven in Okayama, Japan
Rope-dyed in natural indigo, so the colour sits at the surface of the yarn and lifts along seams and cuffs through the first year of wear.
Held in the library. Not cut this season.
Come and see the cloth
The library lives on a rack by the window and visitors are welcome to go through it. The atelier is open for fittings Tuesday to Friday.
Book a fitting